Days 4–8 | Lakes, Legends & Legacy: From Senegal to Ghana
Day 4 | August 11, 1994 – Pink Lake, Prayers, and Pizza
Today, we visited Lake Retba, also known as the Pink Lake, for its high salt content and the rosy tint it takes on during certain times of day due to the presence of algae. On the way, we stopped at a Fulani village. There, we met the village elder’s mother, who was said to be 100 years old.
We watched the village girls perform a traditional dance and were even invited to join in. I danced, laughed, and had a blast… though my legs were not ready for the aftermath. 💃🏽
Next, we headed to the dunes where dune buggies were waiting. There were two—one fast, one slow. I started on the slow one, but quickly graduated to the fast ride. Along the way, we met a wise man who had four wives and joked that he was “open to a fifth.” Our group cracked up, and one of the aunties shot him a look, like, ‘Boy, don’t try it.’
We reached the Atlantic Ocean, where the waves hit differently, wide and free. Together, we joined hands and performed a Muslim prayer on the beach. My dad and one of our tripmates, Keith, waded into the ocean. Our driver rode with one foot up on the side of the dune buggy door, as if it were a casual stroll—I was impressed and a little shaken!
Later, our guide Gambee shared a Muslim folktale that involved his family. The storytelling felt sacred. When we finally arrived at our hotel in Saly, Senegal, it felt like we stepped into paradise: palm trees, lagoon views, and villa-style rooms.
Dinner? Chef’s kiss. Mango, honeydew melon, pasta with corn, hot peppers, and even pizza. We watched dancers perform poolside, then closed the night out at a local nightclub. And let me tell you—the Europeans can throw down on the dance floor. So can our guide. Senegalese rhythm hits the bones differently.
Day 5 | August 12, 1994 – Rain, Chiefs & Missing Mama
We visited a local fishing village today and met the chief and his son. You could tell something was coming—they were preparing to show us local wares for purchase. I noticed all the men watching me. I knew what time it was—they were likely sizing me up as a potential wife. 👀
As we left, the rain came down in sheets. I stood staring at the Atlantic, and tears filled my eyes. I missed my mom. Being in the Motherland connected something for me… but it also opened a space where I felt her absence more deeply.
Day 6 | August 13, 1994 – Fashion Shows & Bus Hustles
We returned to the fishing village, and this time the visit stirred tension. Max, the son of the chief, had become popular among our group, but when we specifically asked for him, his mother became upset. She yelled that we came only asking for Max and not showing respect to the village as a whole. A fair reminder: respect traditions and community as a whole, not just individuals.
As we headed back, the rain began again. We rode in a horse-drawn carriage with some of the skinniest, most malnourished horses I’ve ever seen. It was hard to watch.
Later, we were treated to a Senegalese fashion show, featuring a little girl who modeled a two-piece outfit that melted hearts. But you won’t believe where they put our luggage… on the roof of the tour bus, secured with only canvas and rope!
Our bus ride was wild—my dad ended up squished next to my cousin on the wheel hump. My cousin is a full-sized lady, and he had to relocate or risk being flattened. The ride into the countryside was pitch black. There were no visible stars or moon, just darkness. When the lights on the bus went off, I knew: Should we stop out here? I’m not getting off.
Day 7 | August 14, 1994 – Arrival in Ghana
Today, we said goodbye to Senegal and flew into Ghana. It was a short flight, but my ears popped like crazy. I slept most of the day, but that evening we were invited to see an African dance company perform at our hotel. Of course, I danced again. I danced until I felt lightheaded and dizzy—some mix of jet lag, joy, and fatigue. My dad noticed and gently guided me to our room.
I hadn’t eaten yet, so he ordered me room service. That quiet moment with my father—him making sure I was okay—still means everything to me.
Day 8 | August 15, 1994 – A Lesson in African History with Dr. Maulana
Tonight, we had a powerful lecture with Dr. H.M. Maulana, an African American scholar who had been living in Ghana for over 25 years at the time. He unpacked the origins of the Akan, Dagomba, Ga, and Ewe peoples—Ghana’s four major ethnic groups.
Some of the material felt profound and speculative, drawing on oral history, African cosmology, and ancient wisdom. Here are some of the fascinating things he shared (with clarifications in parentheses for historical context):
- The Dagombas are primarily located in northern Ghana. Their oral traditions trace their origins to the Mali region or the Sahel.
- He spoke of the Ice Age and polar shifts (this is speculative science, not part of the accepted geological consensus).
- A people known as “Metosapians” were described as early African migrants to Europe around 20,000 BC (early human migration from Africa to Europe is supported by anthropological evidence).
- “Mu,” the mythical sunken continent, was said to stretch from Africa to the Americas (this is considered a legend similar to Atlantis, not confirmed geography).
- The Quas were credited with building pyramids across Egypt and the Americas by “splitting a mountain” (again, this falls within Afro-futurist or mythic tradition, not documented archaeology).
- He claimed Africans were aware of nuclear physics as early as 5000 BC (symbolic or spiritual references to atomic energy exist in some ancient texts, but not in a modern scientific sense).
- Ancient Ghana (often called Wagadou) flourished from ~300 CE to 1100s, not 50 BC. It was renowned for its wealth and trade, especially in gold.
- In 711 AD, the Moors indeed conquered parts of Spain and North Africa, introducing Islamic culture and science to Europe.
- He stated that Arabs began enslaving Africans before Europeans, which is historically accurate—the Arab slave trade began around the 7th century.
- He said that Catholic clergy justified slavery in 1553 because Native Americans were deemed too weak for hard labor (this reflects the Doctrine of Discovery and papal bulls that endorsed colonization).
- His chilling note about captains throwing enslaved people overboard to claim insurance is historically accurate, most infamously during the Zong massacre of 1781.
The final image he left us with? Sharks still follow the path of transatlantic slave ships, even to this day. A chilling, poetic truth that clings to the soul.
Reflections to Come…
In the following entries, I’ll be sharing what we saw, felt, and learned in Ghana—visiting historic castles, connecting with locals, and finding pieces of myself I didn’t know were missing.
